Varieties
Early Production
The black grape taken to Peru by the Spanish suffered due to its adaptation to soil and weather conditions in the Province of Pisco, eventually stabilizing in a new variety named "Quebranta", purportedly named because the original grape was "broken" (Spanish quebrar), or tamed, for its new environment. Almost all early pisco was produced from this variety of grape, others used any grape available at the time. However, since only the largest (and those with dedicated pisco distilleries) vineyards were able to produce exportable volume, Quebranta was the only variety exported, since it was the preferred grape for pisco production.
Peruvian Pisco
In the years following the re-establishment of pisco production, many grapes were used to produce pisco, leading to a wide variation in flavor, aroma, viscosity and appearance of the licor. This harmed attempts to export the product under a single denomination since there could be enormous differences between the contents of bottles sold as pisco. As such, a number of regulations were established to counteract this situation and set a baseline for a product to carry the name.
Four levels of pisco were thus designated:
Pure, made from a single variety of grape, mostly Quebranta, although Mollar or Common Black can be used, however, no blending between varietes is accepted, "Pure" Pisco should contain only one variety of grape.
Aromatic, made from Muscat or Muscat-derived grape varietes, and also from Italia and Torontel grapes varieties; once again, the pisco should only contain one variety of grape in any production lot.
Green Must, distilled from partially fermented must, this must be distilled before the fermentation process has transformed sugars into alcohol.
Acholado (Half-breeded), blended from the must of several varieties of grape.
The order is not established on quality, it is simply listed in that way in Peruvian publications.
Some other specific restrictions of note are:
Aging, Pisco must be aged for a minimum of three months in vessels of "glass, stainless steel or any other material which does not alter its physical, chemical or organic properties".
Additives, no additives of any kind may be added to the Pisco that could alter its flavor, odor, appearance or graduation.
Pure pisco is a very viscous liquid, slightly more so than vodka and comparable to Sambuca. It has an odor which is vaguely reminiscent of reeds. Its flavor is very smooth and almost non-alcoholic, which can be very deceptive, with the result that many first-time drinkers often overdrink and can quickly become inebriated without noticing. Some people consider it heresy to mix pure pisco with anything else, and it is generally accepted that it should be drunk alone, even to the exclusion of ice.
Aromatic is rarely seen nowadays, as its production has almost ceased in Peru, since according to Peruvian specifications, Chilean pisco would be classified as Aromatic. See the Chilean pisco section for more information.
Green Must is accepted as a poor man's pisco, not generally seen in high-income environments. Its taste is very strong, as is its odor, and can be quite pungent if left to breathe for a large amount of time.
Acholado is gaining popularity due to its sweetness, both in odor and flavor, making it a favorite for Pisco sour, a mixed drink. The Acholado variety is also preferred due to its "kick", which can be felt immediately after drinking, one can literally feel the drink making its way to the stomach.
Chilean Pisco
During the adaptation of many vineyards to Pisco production, the most widespread grape was used as raw material, namely the Muscat, with some vineyards preferring the Torontel and Pedro Jiménez varieties. As is the case with Peru, regulations for Pisco designations have been enacted in Chile:
· Regular, 30° to 35° (60 to 70 proof).
· Special, 35° to 40° (70 to 80 proof).
· Reserve, 40° to 43° (80 to 86 proof).
· Great, 43° or more (86 or more proof).
No distinction between varietal mixes is made other than it is restricted to the three kinds of grapes named before. It should be noted that, different to the Peruvian Pisco, during the production water is added to the Chilean Pisco in order to soft the 'firewater' aftertaste.
Regular Pisco is quite bland in taste, reminiscent of a weak rum, and its odor is very sweet and woody with a slight yellowish tinge to the color.
Special and Reserve are very similar in flavor and color, both being very sweet and of a cloudy yellowish color. The flavor is much stronger than Regular Pisco and leaves an alcoholic aftertaste in the mouth, similar to bourbon.
Great Pisco has a commanding odor and a very pleasant dark yellow color, it is not as sweet as the other varieties, yet it carries strong woody flavor the others lack, probably due to longer aging.
Comparison
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PERU
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CHILE
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Definition
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Firewater obtained exclusively from the distillation of recently fermented "Pisco Grapes", using methods which maintain the traditional principles of quality established in recognized production areas.
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...is reserved to firewater produced and bottled, in consumable quantities, in Regions III and IV, elaborated by the distillation of geniune wine, originating from specified varietals, grown in said regions.
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Grapes
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Non Aromatic: Quebranta, Common Black, Mollar
Aromatic: Italia, Muscat, Albilla, Torontel.
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Yellow Muscat, White Early Muscat, Alexandria Muscat, Austrian Muscat, Frontignan Muscat, Hamburg Muscat, Black Muscat, Pink Muscat, Canelli Muscat, Orange Muscat, Pedro Jiménez , Torontel.
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Production
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The fermentation process can be done with partial or total maceration of the grape, strictly controlling the temperature and decomposition of sugars.
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The grape juice is fermented into wine containing 14° alcohol (28 proof).
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The fermented product is distilled in copper or stainless steel recipientes to the desired gradiation. No product may be added to alter the gradiation, odor, flavor or color of the liquid.
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The fermented product is distilled in copper recipients until a gradiation of 55° to 60° is reached. Rectifiers must be added if alcohol gradiation is less than specified.
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The Pisco must be aged a minimum of three months in glass, stainless steel or other materials which do not alter the physical, chemical or organic propierties before bottling.
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The crude firewater is aged in wood recipients for a short time, usually not more than a few months. Higher quality brands may be aged in oak barrels for a longer time.
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The Pisco must be bottled directly after aging, without alteration or adding any product which could alter the odor, flavor or appearance.
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The firewater from different distilleries is mixed, diluted with demineralized water in order to lower the gradiation to the desired level, filtered and bottled.
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Alcohol Content
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38° to 48° (76 to 96 proof)
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No less than 30° (60 proof)
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Designated Pisco Areas
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Departments of Lima, Ica, Arequipa, Moquegua and the Locumba, Sama and Caplina valleys in the Department of Tacna.
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Atacama, Coquimbo.
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NOTE: the Peruvian regulation specifically refers to "Pisco" throughout the document; the Chilean regulation mentions it as aguardiente (brandy or "firewater") when referring to Pisco in general and only mentions "Pisco" when referring to a specific variety (such as "Reserve Pisco").
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